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  • 翻译常识文章--攀爬是攀岩的最佳训练方式吗? (1)

    2008-05-19 05:51:29  作者:Eric J. Horst 翻译:jimonline【授权发表】 来源:中国户外资料网 关注:8921次 文字大小:[][][进论坛讨论

    核心提示:  这篇 Eric J. Horst写的文章是朋友提供的,我粗略翻译的。   Is Climbing The Best Training For Climbing?   攀爬就是最佳的攀岩训练方法吗?   It‘s an old adage that “climbing is the best training for climbing,” and many

    关 键 字:翻译常识文章--攀爬是攀岩的最佳训练方式吗?

      这篇 Eric J. Horst写的文章是朋友提供的,我粗略翻译的。

      Is Climbing The Best Training For Climbing?

      攀爬就是最佳的攀岩训练方法吗?

      It‘s an old adage that “climbing is the best training for climbing,” and many climbers lean on this line as an excuse for not engaging in any training activities outside of climbing itself. Let’s examine this precept and determine, once and for all, if it is valid.

      有句流行的说法“攀爬就是最好的攀岩训练”许多攀岩者依着这个籍口不去做任何攀岩之外的训练活动。让我们检查鉴定一下是否是肯定的,如果这是有效的话。

      When I am asked the question “Is climbing the best training for climbing”, my canned answer is--“it depends.” This is because the best type of training for a given climber depends on his or her current strengths and weaknesses as well as current absolute climbing ability. For instance, in terms of improving climbing technique and mental skills, no amount of strength training will produce direct improvements in these areas. However, for developing sport-specific strength (i.e. conditioning to improve grip strength, lock-off ability, and endurance of upper body strength), simply “climbing for training” will produce limited results and only slow (or no) improvement from year to year. Sound familiar?

      当我被问道“攀爬是最好的攀岩训练吗?”我都会这样回答“看情况”。这是因为对特定的攀岩者最好的训练类型是依据他或她目前的优势与短处以及目前的绝对攀爬能力。举个例子,谈到关于改进攀岩技巧与心理技巧,力量训练不会在这些领域产生直接的改进。然而,对发展特定运动力量(例如训练提高抓握力量,锁定力和上身耐力)简单地“攀爬作为训练”是只能产生很有限的作用,或一年年地缓慢进展。这些话,是不是似曾听说?

      One reason that climbing is not the best method of strength training is because the ultimate goals of “training” versus “climbing” are very different. For instance, the goal in climbing is to avoid muscular failure at all costs and, hopefully, reach the top of a boulder problem or climb before the arm and forearm muscles pump out. Conversely, when training for climbing it is often best to exercise at the highest possible intensity and produce muscular failure in a few minutes, if not a few seconds. Summarizing--in climbing, you strive to avoid failure; in training, you tend to pursue failure.

      说攀爬不是最佳的力量训练方法,原因之一是因为“训练”对比“攀岩”的最终目标是非常不一样的。举例说吧,攀爬的目的是想方设法避免肌肉力竭,在手臂和前臂肌肉力竭前有希望到达顶点。相反地,为攀岩的训练通常是在几秒或几分钟内做最高的可能达到的强度产生肌肉力竭会是最好的练习。总结来说,在攀岩,你是努力避免失败;而在训练,你是趋向产生失败。

      Another ex

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